My 9 Day Road Trip from Airlie Beach to Uluru & The Red Centre
Hey, I’m Lily, a travel bug first and travel writer second. In July, my partner and I embarked on a 9-day road trip from Airlie Beach to Uluru, exploring incredible gorges, deserts, and remote places. With our 2WD campervan and rooftop tent, we camped under starry skies, cooked by the fire, and soaked in all the beauty and culture of Central Australia.
In three words, the trip was breathtaking, rugged, and vast, and we had an unforgettable trip. We covered nearly 3000 km in about 40 hours of driving, took over 5000 photos, and even spotted a wild camel along the way! This journey took us through some of Australia’s most iconic landscapes, including the spectacular Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges, Watarrka National Park, Uluru, and Kata Tjuta. It was such an honour to witness sacred Indigenous sites, learn about the incredible cultures and stories of the places we visited and experience the quiet of such rugged wilderness.
Here's a breakdown of our exciting journey through Central Australia; what we would do again, and what we would do differently next time!
Day 1: Airlie Beach to Julia Creek (8 hours)
Not going to lie, we condensed the drive to the Red Centre into as little time as safely possible, as we wanted more time for exploring and less time spent on the endless highways! So, we kicked off our road trip by heading west along the Flinders Highway, stopping in Charters Towers and Hughenden. The highlight was definitely the massive blue dinosaur statue in Hughenden, accompanied by fresh van-made sandwiches. While we heard about Porcupine Gorge from a grey nomad, we sadly didn’t have time to stop into this wild bush walk gem… we were on a mission!
Julia Creek Caravan Park & Artesian Baths
That evening, we arrived in Julia Creek and checked into the Julia Creek Caravan Park. It was a quiet, charming stop, and we enjoyed a pedal around town on the free bicycles! Then, we returned for a relaxing soak in the caravan park’s outdoor baths, which are fed from the Artesian Basin! With a bottle of wine, cheese board and a dusky outback sunset, it was the perfect way to kick off our outback adventure.
- Tip: if you’re wanting to enjoy the Artesian Basin-fed baths in Julia Creek, book ahead, as they are a popular little hidden gem for those in the know!
Day 2: Julia Creek to Barkly Homestead (7.5 hours)
After a good rest, we set off for the next leg of our journey. Along the way, we stopped by the Katter Indigenous Memorial and filled up at Camooweal. The Outback really started to reveal itself here; the dirt was getting redder and redder with every kilometre. Signal along this stretch (and honestly a lot of the drive) was very patchy, and we were grateful for our foresight to download an audiobook.
Barkly Homestead Pub & Caravan Park
To spend the night, we were actually aiming for Tennant Creek. However, on the advice of a traveller I met at Julia Creek, we continued onto Barkly Homestead about an hour before the bigger town. This trendy oasis in the middle of nowhere was a total surprise! It kind of felt like a pub in the city, but surrounded by, well, nothing. The pastel-pink pub and live music made for a super fun afternoon. We stayed at the homestead at a powered site, and there was an amazing electric sunset over red dirt as we finished the day of driving with a cold beer.
- Tip: have all maps, music and listening material downloaded as signal is incredibly scarce.
Day 3: Barkly Homestead to Alice Springs via Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) (7.5 hours)
Our third and thankfully final day of driving saw us finish our audiobook while we completed another 8-hour day on the road. A highlight was absolutely a stop at Karlu Karlu (Devil's Marbles), an awe-inspiring collection of enormous granite boulders on the traditional country of the Warumungu, Kaytetye, Alyawarr and Warlpiri people. Meaning ‘round boulder,’ Karlu Karlu has many traditions and stories connected to the site, which we read about on the information boards.
Then, we wandered through the huge orange rocks and enjoyed the quiet, dramatic landscape on the 20-minute Karlu Karlu walk loop. Another traveller told us to do the Nyanjiki Lookout walk for a view, but we had to get back on the road to make it into Alice before dark. Just a few minutes off the highway, it's well worth the visit for its stunning rock formations and fascinating history.
Alice Springs (Mpartnwe)
We arrived in Alice Springs (Mpartnwe) that evening at around 6 pm, where we had organised an after-hours check-in at the caravan park we stayed at. Honestly, Alice Springs felt a little bit unsafe at night, with heaps of loud noises and sirens coming through as soon as it got dark, so we just had an early dinner and stayed in. Though we mostly used it as a base, Alice gave us access to some of the most beautiful landscapes we’ve ever seen, and the next few days were such a highlight of the trip.
Day 4: Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges - Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm & Ormiston Gorge
On day four, we explored Tjoritja/ the West MacDonnell Ranges, just 45 minutes outside of Alice Springs. This was such an amazing easy day trip from Alice Springs on the traditional land of the Arrernte people. Once you get driving out of the city, you hit Larapinta Drive, which then turns into Namatjira Drive.
Along this stretch, you can access heaps of the sights and swimming holes of Tjoritja, including:
- Simpsons Gap
- Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)
- Ellery Creek Big Hole
- Ormiston Gorge
- Glen Helen Gorge
- Redbank Gorge
- Mt Sonder Lookout
- Serpentine Gorge
- Ochre Pits
- Finke Gorge National Park
- Tnorala (Gosse Bluff)
- Hugh Gorge
- Rocky Bar Gap
- Inarlanga Pass
- Brinkley Bluff
There was actually way more out here than we realised, and it was so incredibly lush, green, serene and peaceful. Since we only had a day, we ventured to Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm and Ormiston Gorge, which pretty much took the whole day.
- Tip: If I were to plan this part of the trip again, I think I would have chosen one of the many campsites to camp at along the way rather than staying in Alice (Mpartnwe) to minimise driving time and experience more of Tjoritja's gems.
Simpsons Gap
On our day trip from Alice Springs, we started at Simpsons Gap, where we searched for local black-footed rock wallabies and admired the glowing red cliffs against the blue-green water. The short walk was easy and paved, with some parts sand and some parts a rough path. It was windy, peaceful, and not too busy, allowing us to really soak in the wonder of this site. It was my first glimpse of water out in the desert, and this still, beautiful body of water really had the word “oasis” coming to mind.
Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)
Next, we headed to Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye) just down the road, a privately owned Indigenous site, where we happily paid a small fee to enter. The walk through the chasm was peaceful and lined with wonderful, blooming native flowers. With echoing canyon walls and a small waterhole at the end, it felt really special at this lovely spot.
We noticed plenty of families doing this short walk, and while uneven underfoot at parts, the trek itself was doable. The iced tea and some hot chips at the café were a refreshing treat after our walk. Here I noticed a lot of hikers doing the Larapinta, and it was great to talk to some adventurous trekkers and how they were finding the walk (I’ve absolutely added this 221km hike to the bucket list)!
Ormiston Gorge
Our final stop was Ormiston Gorge, a vast canyon with impressive birdlife and sweeping views. The waterhole was too cold for swimming at this time of year, but the landscape and vast rocky cliffs were so gorgeous. This area felt sacred, and most visitors had a real sense of quiet about them. We saw herons and eagles hunting for fish.
We didn’t do the 9.5km Gorge Walk after quite the day of adventuring, but we did some rock scrambling along the Gorge’s impressive cliffs, marvelling at the ochre-red colours and deep, still water. Then, a 1.5-hour drive back the way we came took us back to Alice Springs. We were exhausted after an incredible day of experiencing Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges, so it was a van-cooked dinner and bed!
Day 5: Kings Canyon Rim Walk – My Favourite Hike
We left Alice Springs (Mpartnwe) early that morning with our sites set on a big walk. As we didn’t have a 4WD vehicle, we played it safe and stuck to the sealed roads, adding over an hour onto the drive via Ghan. While it wasn’t ideal, we had heard the Mereenie Loop was treacherous even with a 4WD, and we really didn’t want to risk getting a flat or stuck without reception. We had a quick stop at Kings Creek Station just before we got to the Watarrka, had a yummy scone, a browse of the souvenir shop and said hello to the resident camels!
Kings Canyon Rim Walk
We arrived at Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon) at around 10:30 am for the 6km Rim Walk, again on the recommendation of a traveller. This walk was easily my favourite hike of the entire trip! The day started with rain, as we made it up the steep 500 steps dubbed “Heart Attack Hill” but by the time we reached the top of the range, the sun was shining. Illuminating the orange rock and mind-blowing 360 views, the walk was incredible.
There were towering cliffs, a tranquil waterhole and endless opportunities to look out over the canyon. My favourite part of my favourite walk was the Garden Of Eden, a lush rainforest haven in the middle of towering, dry rock. The birdlife was abundant, and the path was maintained well. While I have never visited the Grand Canyon in the US, the grand, sweeping views of dramatic, breathtaking cliffs and deep red colours lit up by the sunshine gave me that same awestriking vibe! After the walk, I made a cup of tea from the van while Aidan sent his drone up to capture the marvellous rocky canyon as the sun went down.
A note on drones
- Drones are permitted in many parts of NT with a permit you can apply for online, except for Uluru & Kata Tjuta National Park, which have really strict no-fly drone regulations).
That evening, we returned to the Kings Canyon Discovery campsite for a drink and admired the nearby light art exhibition over a glass of wine at the local bar. Watching the installation glow against the backdrop of the Outback night sky was such a cherry on top of a really spectacular day.
Day 6: Uluru – Scenic Flight & Sunset
After leaving Kings Canyon, we did the 3-hour drive to Yulura. Neither of us had ever visited Uluru, and it was such an incredible drive in. The flat, quiet landscape and the jutting rock were incredible. Just, WOW! We had made it to the pièce de résistance and were so excited to explore this beautiful destination from all angles.
Yulura
Yulura was actually my favourite township of the whole trip, as it felt community-centric and also really easy to get around. A free shuttle bus takes you from the airport across all of the town’s accommodations, which was so handy. I really loved hearing the local Indigenous language being spoken in the streets, and as someone from a city, I was struck with a sad realisation that I actually had never experienced that in a casual context.
Bush food talk
Aidan and I hopped on the free shuttle from the Ayers Rock Campground to the Ayers Rock Resort, where we met for a free bush foods information chat. We tasted saltbush, saw the infamous quandongs and learnt about different, innovative uses that the local Indigenous people have for their variety of native foods in the area.
Uluru Scenic Flight
We kicked off our time with a 25-minute scenic flight over Uluru and Kata Tjuta that afternoon, and it was the best money I have ever spent on a tour. Seeing these sacred sites from above was a breathtaking experience, and the scale of the landscape left me in awe. The greenery was a pleasant surprise, and the wildflowers in bloom made the landscape even more special.
Our pilot’s commentary was awesome, and it was the perfect way to start this part of the trip, as we had an overview of the gorgeous town and National Park before we got stuck into exploring on our own.
Sunset over Uluru
As evening approached, we watched the Uluru sunset from the viewing platform near the Ayers Rock campground (literally a 5-minute walk up the boardwalk from our site) and it was just magical. Uluru glowed a deep red as the sun set, and I felt so grateful to be in the spiritual heart of the country on the traditional lands of the Anangu people.
Day 7: Uluru Base Walk & Wintjiri Wiru Drone Show
Uluru Base Walk
We woke up early again to do the self-guided base walk around Uluru. First, we stopped in at the information centre and actually spent about an hour there, learning about the culture, traditions and significance attached to the iconic Uluru. It was a really beautifully curated visitor centre with so much rich knowledge from the Anangu people, and I was really glad that we did this stop before the walk around Uluru, for a bit of a deeper understanding.
Walking the 10km base walk around Uluru gave us a profound appreciation for the rock’s cultural and spiritual significance, with really informative info signs telling us about the Mala Dreamtime, and cultural traditions of the Anangu people. Every angle offered a new perspective on its majestic beauty, and it was so much more amazing than what I’d seen in photos. Again, I was surprised at the amount of greenery and wildlife that thrived in the rich biodiverse sections surrounding the rock.
Wintjiri Wiru Light Show
That night, we boarded the complimentary bus and attended the Wintjiri Wiru drone show, which told the Mala Dreamtime story through stunning light displays. Over 1200 drones flew in the sky, painting pictures of animals, plants and scenes. We were welcomed by an Anangu man in the Pitjantjatjara language and greeted with a drink and soft pink twilight views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta on a private viewing platform.
Once the drones and soundscapes started, I was utterly gobsmacked! I had to keep reminding myself that this was unfolding live before my eyes, and it wasn’t just a movie or screen. The show and narration were simply enchanting. The snack platter, flowing wine, and Indigenous-made beers were a delightful touch, and the show itself was like nothing I’ve ever experienced. Seeing the story unfold against the backdrop of Uluru was truly unforgettable, and I am so grateful to have learnt this ancient story, passed down through generations, and now in such an artistic and technologically impressive format!
Image: Trade Voyagers
Day 8: Kata Tjuta Valley of the Winds Walk
Our final full day was spent hiking through the Valley of the Winds at Kata Tjuta, a 7.4km loop through the culturally significant rock formations and ecosystems. The domes of Kata Tjuta felt ancient and sacred, and we were surrounded by other walkers and nature enthusiasts. The echoey valleys, towering rocks and bushland were so beautiful. The walk itself was rocky underfoot at times and required a medium level of fitness. I couldn’t imagine doing this walk in any hotter weather and was really grateful for the temperate Outback winter climate we had.
A note on taking photos out at Kata Tjuta
- This area is a sacred men's site where photography is mostly restricted. While the signage prohibits photos at certain lookouts, the whole Valley of the Winds is actually a no videos or photos zone. The traditional owners have advised that it is okay to capture close-ups of flora, fauna, and people, but to leave the rock formations out of the shot. These formations hold knowledge meant only for those with cultural authority, and by respecting this, visitors help preserve Anangu beliefs.
After the Kata Tjuta walk, we stopped at a Kata Tjuta viewing platform and read more about the geology and cultural significance of the site, before heading back to our campsite. The way our trip worked out meant that we were leaving our campervan in Uluru for some friends to tag team pick up and do their own road trip. So, Aidan and I caught the night bus back to Alice Springs, ending our adventure with a long, quiet trip and staying at a local hostel.
Day 9: Alice Springs & Farewell
On our last day, we grabbed breakfast in Alice Springs CBD at Page 27 Cafe, checked out of the YHA hostel and caught a local shuttle bus to the airport. From there, we flew back to Brisbane, carrying with us memories and a whole new knowledge of cultures and landscapes of the brilliant Central Outback Australia.
Outback Traveller Tips
Here's what I learnt from our trip for your next Outback adventure.
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National Parks Passes
I recommend getting the general NT Parks Pass for the entire trip to cover access across various parks, allowing you to travel worry-free for the whole trip. We got the 10-day pass for $30 each, or you can get a 1-day pass for $10, or a year pass for $60. Pretty much every National Park we visited aside from Kata Tjuta required us to have this digital pass. Your NT National Parks pass can be purchased from the National Park info centres, or online.
The Uluru Kata Tjuta-specific parks pass needs to be purchased in addition to your NT Parks Pass, and can also be purchased online or at the gate when you’re there.
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Time of Year
Late July was a beautiful time to visit. The area was lush and green, with blooming wildflowers, minimal rain, and comfortable day temperatures. Be prepared for both daytime heat and chilly nights (it got down to 4°C!), so layering is key. I would avoid travelling in the summer as it really does shorten your days (you have to do all walking before 11 am), and opt for a visit in autumn, spring or winter!
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4WD or 2WD?
While our 2WD campervan was fine for the major attractions, I’d have preferred a 4WD if we’d had more time, as it opens up access to remote spots and quicker routes. For example, going from Kings Canyon to Uluru meant we backtracked about 150 km to avoid unsealed roads. Nevertheless, if you're doing a relatively short road trip like ours, you can absolutely do it in any (reliable) vehicle!
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Chat with other travellers
Many of our stops and hikes were discovered through tips from fellow travellers, especially seasoned grey nomads. Starting conversations with locals or those who’ve explored the route can reveal hidden gems and worthwhile detours.
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Photography, drones, and sensitive sites
When visiting the Red Centre, it’s essential to respect the natural and cultural sensitivities of each location. Always do a quick online search before taking photos in any area, and heed any signs prohibiting photography to ensure you’re following local regulations. Drones, for instance, require a permit for use in most national parks, which you can apply for online. However, they are strictly prohibited in sacred areas like Kata Tjuta and Uluru, so just be aware of what you’re planning on taking photos of.
Final Thoughts
Our Outback journey was nothing short of breathtaking, and I am so grateful for the opportunity to explore this vast part of Australia. From the wild expanses of Watarrka and the spiritual significance of Uluru and Kata Tjuta, to the biodiverse ranges of Tjoritja/West MacDonnells, we made the most of our short time in the Outback. Travelling in winter meant fewer flies, cooler temperatures, and spectacular wildflowers. It was the perfect time to visit, and I’m so glad we chose to go in late July.
This trip felt like a different kind of tourism, more focused on learning about the land and history, respecting Indigenous culture, and slowing down to appreciate the beauty of Australia’s Red Centre. Nothing felt too crowded, and I loved slowing down and listening to my surroundings, despite being on a bit of a time budget. I think that’s just the vibe of these beautiful outback pockets, encouraging visitors to slow down, listen and learn.
For anyone considering a similar adventure, I highly recommend taking your time, preparing well, and embracing the rugged and red-dirt journey ahead!
